Silab, the French active-ingredient manufacturer, has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed to address a deficiency in ferritinophagy, a process that controls the release of iron so cells can use it. Silab says a modeling study on menopausal skin identified this deficiency as a factor in reduced bioavailable iron and premature skin aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging.
The company links the condition to two opposing iron-related problems. In menopausal skin, insufficient ferritinophagy is said to leave too little bioavailable iron. At the same time, ultraviolet radiation can promote the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, causing a large, uncontrolled release of iron and substantial oxidative stress. Metallomia is intended to relaunch ferritinophagy, support iron provision and restore key epidermal functions, while reducing iron/ferritin complexes to limit oxidative stress after UV exposure.
The ingredient therefore targets iron handling rather than iron levels alone. Silab's model suggests that controlled ferritinophagy is needed for iron delivery to cells; when it is deficient, bioavailable iron drops. UV exposure adds a second burden by breaking down iron/ferritin stores and freeing iron in an uncontrolled way. Silab's proposed solution is to restart the controlled process and reduce the pool of complexes that can release iron under UV. The company positions the ingredient as detoxifying, with the iron-related oxidative stress as its target.
Reported clinical outcomes
According to Silab, the targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In Caucasian volunteers, skin was described as revitalized after 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, it prevented lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow-root sourcing
The development draws on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which Silab describes as particularly rich in mucilages. The company has set up a traced supply chain with French partners; the supply has been validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated through DNA barcoding. To extract polyuronides from the roots, Silab developed a specific enzyme-engineering process.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is patented and recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations, has 100% natural-origin content under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.